singapore + malaysia
i spent the last two weeks in singapore and malaysia, mostly seeing family and eating more than i'd thought possible. kway teow soup, assam laksa, satay, roti prata, bak kut teh. meal after meal of food you can't get the real version of back home.
the strangest part was how slow everything felt. the days stretched out, and by the end it felt like i'd been gone far longer than two weeks, in the best possible way. away from work and routine, i could finally see how much of my life they usually fill: how much of my attention they quietly take, and how little is left when they're done. for two weeks there was nothing i had to be doing, and the time opened up. i had room to ground myself, to sit with things i don't normally get to.
i also came away with a wider sense of the world than i usually carry. the trip put me around lives that share almost nothing with mine: family who built theirs on the other side of the planet, strangers whose worlds barely touch my own. seeing them up close stretches what you let yourself believe a life can even be.
it was the people, though, more than anything. i saw extended family i hadn't seen in years. my grandma made 粽子 (sticky rice dumplings) and 萝卜糕 (radish cake) for me — homemade, neither of which i'd had since she moved away. she made them specially, because she knows how much i love them. there's a particular warmth in being fed by someone who's known you your whole life, and i'd forgotten how much i missed it.
the last couple of years have been rough on my mom's side of the family, and getting everyone in one room without friction wasn't a given. so it meant more than i expected to see them all gathered this time, actually getting along, the tension set down at least for a few days. being all together, for no reason beyond being together, was the best part of the whole trip.
a big thank you to the people who made those two weeks what they were. to my parents and my brother, who flew out from the states with me. to my uncle, who spent a week showing us his malaysia. to my grandma and my aunt. i don't get time like this with any of you often, and i felt that the whole way through.
what follows are a few of the things from those weeks i haven't been able to put down.
a "rich" life
i want to be rich.
not in the way you're supposed to wave it off — the quick laugh, the line about money and happiness. i mean it plainly. and i've stopped dressing it up as something noble: i used to keep my distance from people who chased this, certain i wanted something cleaner than they did, and i'm less certain now.
it isn't the objects. i can see why people want the watches and the bags with the right names on them, and i mostly don't. what i want is the part that doesn't photograph: the life it makes possible.
the dinners were with people my parents knew and i didn't — a man who'd been cfo of a chinese bank, a woman who'd sat in singapore's parliament, the chairman of one of the banks the country runs on. jobs like those are why their families live the way they do: the schooling, the travel, the quiet assumption that the world will say yes.
at one of them, a dinner at the cricket club, i spent most of the night talking to someone's eleven-year-old granddaughter. she told me about skiing in chamonix and the trip to vietnam she was taking next week with her best friend, and she said all of it the way i'd have told you about a sleepover — no sense that any of it was rare, because to her it wasn't. she was poised and curious, quicker than most adults i talk to. nothing in her was showing off. the world was simply open to her, and always had been; she didn't yet know it was a thing some people had and others didn't.
that's the thing i want. not the chamonix; the open world behind it — a childhood where curiosity is never foreclosed by what it costs. i want to be able to give that.
and not just to a kid i might have. i want to be able to give to the people already in my life: to pick up the check without the small math running underneath, to help someone who needs it without the help costing me anything i'd feel. and, someday, a wedding where i don't have to cut the list, where everyone i'd want there is there, and no one was left off over the price of a seat.
after you
manners were drilled into me before i understood what they were for. greet everyone when you walk in. let the elders sit first, eat first, speak first. don't take the last piece, don't take the biggest one. my parents ran it into me so constantly that it stopped being instruction and turned into reflex. i still feel a small wrongness if i reach for the food before the oldest person at the table has touched theirs.
for a long time i half-suspected the whole thing was theater. manners are easy to dismiss that way: a performance of being good, a set of moves you make so people approve of you, nothing underneath. fake, a little fussy, maybe even a class thing.
i don't think that anymore, and it's because i've watched what their absence looks like. this trip i've been around someone newer to the family, who wasn't raised the way i was. it shows in small ways, none of them dramatic. she starts eating before others have been served, takes from the middle of the table without checking there's enough to go around. back at the apartment, she's first into the shower while the rest of us wait. none of it is cruelty; i don't think she means anything by any of it. that's almost the point: the habit of catching yourself was simply never built in her.
and watching her, i finally got what the drilling had been for. manners aren't a performance of goodness. they're the trained habit of remembering that the other people in the room are as real as you are — as hungry, as tired, as eager to go first. taking the most food, grabbing the first shower: those aren't etiquette slips. they're small ways of moving through the world as if you're the only person actually in it.
after you. someone reaches the door first and holds it; someone gets to the table first and waits. it's two words and a half-second of going second, and that half-second is the whole of it — the small, constant proof that you know you're not the only one here. i was drilled in it until it ran on its own, and of everything i was handed that way, it's the one piece i'd never give back.
escapement
i spent an afternoon working through the luxury watch stores on orchard road, pretending to be someone who could buy something. i told each salesperson the same story, a cousin's wedding tomorrow and a watch i needed for it, and watched the warmth switch on: the trays coming out, the whole performance of service a store puts on for someone it thinks is about to spend. none of it was true. i had no intention of buying anything, and after a few hours i hadn't seen a single watch that moved me. they were beautiful and they were boring. luxury with nothing behind it.
then i walked into breguet.
four people stood at the back, bent over blown-up models of watch movements, tinkering with mechanisms the size of dinner plates. one of them, french and maybe fifty, came over almost at once, and instead of selling me anything he asked, with real urgency, whether i knew what an escapement was. i didn't. for the next half hour he showed me. the escapement, it turns out, is the part that releases the mainspring's energy in tiny measured beats — the thing that makes a watch tick instead of spending itself all at once. the heart of the whole machine. he walked me through how this one worked, a movement inside a 490,000-dollar watch, and most of it went straight over my head. i caught maybe a tenth of the words. but i caught all of him. the man was lit up. he talked about the watch, and the two centuries of it, the way people talk about the thing they'd do for free, and that came across the counter perfectly intact even as the mechanics dissolved on the way to me.
the watch talk turned into other talk. somewhere in it we'd moved to a cozy alcove off to the side, tucked away from the people drifting past, and sat there another half hour, on to nothing in particular — life in singapore, how he'd ended up here. it came out almost in passing that he runs breguet for all of southeast asia, that he'd built a whole life around this: married here, kids in school here, decades in the trade. i'd half-assumed passion like that was a young man's thing, the enthusiasm you have before the work grinds it out of you. but here was someone at the very top of it, who'd been doing this longer than i've been alive, still stopping a stranger in his shop to make sure he understood why an escapement matters.
i walked out thinking about the look on his face. caring about something so much you can't not talk about it, so much it survives the decades and follows you home — that's what i envy. not the watch, not the expertise, just having a thing that does that to you. i don't know what mine is yet. i have things i reach for, but nothing i'd stop a stranger in a store to explain. i want, more than almost anything, to find the thing i would.
my first wedding
my cousin got married, and it was the first wedding i'd ever been to. a traditional chinese one — the tea ceremony, the long banquet, the whole family there. and i mean the whole family: cousins and aunts and uncles we hadn't seen in years, all of us in one room again. there were happy tears all over the room, and so much smiling that my own face ached by the end of the night.
what stays with me isn't any single part of it. it's that the day was happy in an uncomplicated way i'm not used to. families mostly gather for the hard things; this was the rare time we were all together for something purely good. i went home a little stunned by how much it had moved me.
langkawi
langkawi was nothing like where we'd come from. corrugated metal roofs, rusted at the edges. paint gone from most of the buildings. everything sun-bleached and salt-worn, like the heat had been working on it for years and winning. the people moved through it the way you do when it's just your life — bare feet gone black from the ground, clothes worn thin, skin scorched dark by a sun that never lets up. mosquitoes everywhere, feasting, and mostly no one bothering to swat them.
we walked through a food market. a few fans turned overhead and did almost nothing; the flies they were meant to move just settled back onto the food, which sat out uncovered in the heat. dogs threaded between the stalls. a couple of monkeys watched from a roofline. cats slept in whatever shade they could find.
my first reaction wasn't a kind one. i recoiled before i'd thought anything at all.
but none of it is unusual. this is how a huge share of the world lives, on almost nothing by the standards i'd flown in with. people are born here, raise their kids here, grow old here, and i'd flinched within ten minutes of arriving. i left embarrassed by how narrow my sense of normal had been, and reminded how much of the world i never have to think about.
doing hard things
it was my first real hike. bukit mertajam, a forest park in malaysia, with my brother, my uncle, and my uncle's friend, all three far out of my league. my brother had just gotten back from a month-long trip: acatenango, machu picchu, patagonia. my uncle and his friend have stood at everest base camp. i'd never done any of it, and the whole way there i was quietly worried i'd be the one slowing everyone down.
we'd been up since six, and i was carrying about forty pounds of gear i wasn't used to carrying.
i should say i don't really like hiking. you walk for hours and the scenery barely changes — the same green wall of trees giving way to the same green wall of trees, mile after mile. people talk about hiking like it does something to them. it mostly just makes me tired.
and this one was rough. malaysian jungle: the trail rugged and root-knotted, the air thick enough to drink. mosquitoes the whole way. a centipede the length of my forearm that i'm still not over. monkeys somewhere overhead, and things in the brush i couldn't name and didn't want to meet.
then, for an hour, the sky opened and dumped rain on us, and we kept walking through it, soaked to the skin. my uncle and his friend are almost sixty; neither of them broke. the last stretch got genuinely hard, hard enough that we stopped talking and it became one foot, then the next. and i made it. i kept up.
none of this was a surprise to me. i knew going in exactly why i was there, because it's the same reason every time. i don't do it for the hike. i do it for the end of the hike — for the fact, afterward, that my body did something i wasn't sure it could. and under that, something simpler and truer about me: i like having hiked a lot more than i like hiking. i like the done thing, the box checked, the proof i moved forward. it's just how i'm built. i'll never love the trail, but i'll keep doing hard things, because i like who i am by the end of them.
blood sweat money
my uncle took us to his friend's durian farm. the road up was barely a road — steep and tight and switchbacking, room for one car and nothing coming the other way. i spent the climb quietly hoping the engine would hold.
at the top a man came out to meet us, tan from a life spent outside, two teeth left along the bottom and a smile that used both of them. he lives on the farm with his brother and his son. a few dogs announced us and then lost interest. he was gracious before we'd done anything to earn it, waving us toward the food like we were the reason he'd gotten up that morning.
and then we ate. durian, mostly, though the trees around us were heavy with rambutan, mangosteen and longan too. a single well off to the side did everything out there: drinking, washing hands, showers, laundry. he kept pressing more on us. "还要吗," he'd say, "do you still want more?" already reaching for the next one before we'd answered. we tried black thorn, red prawn, musang king (the expensive ones, i'm only now learning), and i ate until i was sure i'd burst.
after, he walked us through the farm. i'd never once thought about how a durian gets from the tree to my hands, and it turns out the answer is: hard. someone climbs these trees. someone strings nets beneath them so the fruit doesn't smash on the ground when it drops. someone does it in that heat, on that hill, every day of the season. there's a phrase in chinese, "血汗钱," for money earned the hardest way — it translates, literally, to "blood sweat money." standing in the middle of his farm, i understood it as something more than a figure of speech.
it changes what the food is worth to you, seeing where it comes from. i've spent my whole life buying the cheap version of everything; i think now i'll pay for the local one, the one with a person and a hill behind it. and what stays with me is that the hands doing all that climbing were the same ones refilling my plate. he handed us the most expensive thing his body makes, by the armful, and kept asking if we wanted more.
i don't know anyone who lives like this. everyone in my life works a job at a desk, mine included. i'm grateful to my uncle for the day — for knowing a man like that, and for driving me up that hill to be fed by him.
a chinese time in my life
two weeks of speaking nothing but chinese and mine came back to me. i could hear the difference by the end: words i'd lost surfacing again, sentences coming faster, my ear catching things it would have missed on the first day. it turns out the language is still in there. it just goes quiet when i don't live in it.
and i don't, most of the time. i live in english, eat what's easy, keep the traditions i can keep alone and let the rest thin out. the trip reminded me how much of myself is stored in a language and a culture i only visit now.
i think that's the real reason i'd want someone from the same background. not anything i'd defend in an argument — something plainer. a home where chinese gets spoken without it being an occasion, where the food i grew up on is just dinner, where the traditions don't have to be explained before they can be shared, because the other person grew up inside the same ones. none of it would be mine to keep alive alone, or to soften for company.
there's an understanding that's there before you've earned it — present in the first conversation, because you both started from the same place. i want to build a life on that head start: to keep being chinese, out loud, with someone who doesn't need it explained.